16 Magnificent Small Cabin Plans with Loft and Porch

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16 Magnificent Small Cabin Plans with Loft and Porch – Six years ago, when I took on the job of operating a biological station in the Allegheny Mountains of Highland County, Virginia, I identified myself faced with a serious difficulty: namely, how to house my family for the duration of the summer time time college sessions.

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The small private college I worked for had no funds for extra staff lodging … and our year-round home was in the far eastern portion of the state (which meant we couldn’t commute to the outpost). What we expected, then, was an "overnight" cabin that the five of us — my wife, myself, our two teenage sons, and our teenage daughter — could generate quickly, rapidly, and inexpensively right on the biological station grounds, and reside in for the duration of the summer time time months.

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In terms of design, such a lodge would have to be weathertight, sturdy sufficient to each and every withstand the gusty storms prevalent to this area and shed the loads of snow that at times generate up suitable right here, and spacious sufficient inside to give the six-footers in the family (my sons and me) more than just the tiny quantity of stand-up room down the center of the creating we knew we’d get if we built a traditional A-frame cabin. Generating a Low Cost Cabin

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I am pleased to report that we have been in a position to resolve our housing difficulty — and meet our design objectives — relatively nicely with the enable of a 16-by-24 foot "modified A-frame" cabin … one that we built in just five daylight-to-dark workdays at a cost of only $1,000. (These are 1971 dollars.)

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Day One 

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We spent our first workday digging the twelve two foot square, two foot deep holes for the foundation’s footings, pouring six inches of concrete (made partly with gravel from a nearby stream) into each and every hole, and gathering stones for the piers.

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Day Two

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First point the subsequent morning, we began to lay up a dozen 12 inch-square concrete-and-stone piers to a height — above grade — of about a foot. (See Image Gallery, Figure ) Even even though the mortar was nonetheless wet, we inserted a long bolt (the threaded end of which previously had been heated and bent at a right angle) head-down into each and every of the ten outer piers … then — with the enable of a borrowed dumpy level — I evened up all the columns.

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When the concrete had begun to harden, we [1] set the two-by-eight inch stringers atop their supports, [2] marked the spots at which the bent bolt techniques met the beams, [3] drilled holes in the beams at these points, and (lastly) [4] bolted the stringers into spot atop the piers.

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Day Three

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A top the completed beamwork grid we nailed a subfloor consisting of boards we’d salvaged from an old shed … and straight over the subfloor we built a finish floor of three/four inch A-C waterproof plywood (the very exact same sort of plywood we’d later use for siding and roofing). Taking into consideration that we have been using such heavy flooring material, we saw no have to have to spot tar paper amongst the layers of wood to act as a moisture barrier.

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A top the completed beamwork grid we nailed a subfloor consisting of boards we’d salvaged from an old shed … and straight over the subfloor we built a finish floor of three/four inch A-C waterproof plywood (the very exact same sort of plywood we’d later use for siding and roofing). Taking into consideration that we have been using such heavy flooring material, we saw no have to have to spot tar paper amongst the layers of wood to act as a moisture barrier.

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Subsequent, we constructed the complete rear wall of the cabin-plywood siding and all-flat on our newly constructed floor, using three/four-by-four 1/two inch carriage bolts (with flat and lock washers beneath the nuts) to connect the rafters and studs. Then we raised the wall as high as we could by hand, pulled it into final upright position with the enable of a rope tied to a pickup truck, and checked the structure very very meticulously for "plumb" (to make positive that successive rafter/ stud frames would be appropriately aligned) just ahead of nailing it to the floor.

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With the rear wall up and standing, we proceeded to bolt together the first of five rafter/ stud frames, raise it upright, spike the structure to the floor, and connect it to the wall with sheets of plywood siding (which eliminated the have to have for further bracing of any sort).

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We repeated the above course of action for each and every of the subsequent four rafter/stud frames, using extra plywood siding to brace the structure as we went along. (Note: We applied the sheets of plywood rough side out and spiked them in spot first with 16-penny prevalent nails, then with eight-penny commons.) By overlapping the lowermost siding panels with — and nailing them to — the two-by-eight inch stringers surrounding the creating, we ended up with one heck of a solidly constructed, well-anchored simple framework. Day Four On the fourth day, we [1] built the cabin’s front wall on the ground (and raised it into spot with lots of sweat and push), [2] nailed ridge boards and purlins to the rafters, and [3] hammered down the plywood roofing, using a mixture of 16-penny and eight-penny prevalent nails, as we had done with the siding. (You are right if you contemplate these three/four inch-thick sheets of plywood have been awfully heavy to carry out with … but they go into spot astonishingly speedy and easy if each and every and each and every thing’s lined up appropriately.)

Also, we framed and built the front roof overhang, which employs two sheets of plywood cut as shown in the Image Gallery, Figure four. Day five On the fifth day we set the windows, hung the doors, shingled the roof, painted the complete creating with redwood-colored preservative, and location in the loft floor and loft railing. Our cabin in the woods was UP! Later Additions

Of course, we later made specific additions to the simple cabin: such as a 16-by- 16 foot rear deck … a six foot-wide front porch … a handmade fieldstone chimney for our wood-burning stove (which took us the better portion of a year to complete) … and 1 1/two inch-wide lattice strip battens on the outdoors walls, to cover the gaps amongst the sheets of plywood and enhance the dwelling’s outward appear. I may well add that taking into consideration that the cabin was built we’ve also location in a loft window containing an exhaust fan, and a back door (taking into consideration that we identified the tiny lodge a bit "close" on hot summer time time days). One addition we by no signifies did make was that of a bathroom. (We use the Biological Station’s washhouse facility, which requires location also to be our provide of water.) Likewise, taking into consideration that we planned to consume our meals in the camp dining hall, we elected not to set up a kitchen. The one point our cabin does have, even even though, is lots of sleeping space … which is all we really wanted in the first spot. Want to Make Some point of It?

The truth that we decided not to set up a bath, insulation, and other "necessities" in our cabin doesn’t imply — of course — that you can’t, should you ascertain (as a number of folks have) to generate a replica of our modified A-frame lodge. The beauty of this design, in truth, is the ease with which it can be altered to suit person tastes and demands. (Even the cabin’s dimensions — except for the width, which was tailored to make the most powerful use of four-by-eight foot sheets of plywood — can be changed comparatively rapidly.) One more point I like about our modified A-frame "summer home" is its inherent durability. As opposed to other, substantially considerably significantly less pricey log dwellings, this cabin — as quickly as completed and stained — can be forgotten for at least ten years as far as upkeep is concerned. In short then, we appreciate our $1,000 modified A-frame. We contemplate that for ease of creating, durability, and sheer good seems, it can’t be beat!

Initially Published: March/April 1977

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